Smithfield Foods, the largest and most
profitable pork processor in the world, killed 27 million hogs last
year. That's a number worth considering. A slaughter-weight hog is
fifty percent heavier than a person. The logistical challenge of
processing that many pigs each year is roughly equivalent to
butchering and boxing the entire human populations of New York, Los
Angeles, Chicago, Houston, Philadelphia, Phoenix, San Antonio, San
Diego, Dallas, San Jose, Detroit, Indianapolis, Jacksonville, San
Francisco, Columbus, Austin, Memphis, Baltimore, Fort Worth,
Charlotte, El Paso, Milwaukee, Seattle, Boston, Denver, Louisville,
Washington, D.C., Nashville, Las Vegas, Portland, Oklahoma City and
Tucson.
Smithfield Foods actually faces a more difficult task than
transmogrifying the populations of America's thirty-two largest
cities into edible packages of meat. Hogs produce three times more
excrement than human beings do. The 500,000 pigs at a single
Smithfield subsidiary in Utah generate more fecal matter each year
than the 1.5 million inhabitants of Manhattan. The best estimates
put Smithfield's total waste discharge at 26 million tons a year.
That would fill four Yankee Stadiums. Even when divided among the
many small pig production units that surround the company's
slaughterhouses, that is not a containable amount.
Smithfield estimates that its total sales will reach $11.4
billion this year. So prodigious is its fecal waste, however, that
if the company treated its effluvia as big-city governments do --
even if it came marginally close to that standard -- it would lose
money. So many of its contractors allow great volumes of waste to
run out of their slope-floored barns and sit blithely in the open,
untreated, where the elements break it down and gravity pulls it
into groundwater and river systems. Although the company proclaims
a culture of environmental responsibility, ostentatious pollution
is a linchpin of Smithfield's business model.
A lot of pig shit is one thing; a lot of highly toxic pig shit
is another. The excrement of Smithfield hogs is hardly even pig
shit: On a continuum of pollutants, it is probably closer to
radioactive waste than to organic manure. The reason it is so toxic
is Smithfield's efficiency. The company produces 6 billion pounds
of packaged pork each year. That's a remarkable achievement, a
prolificacy unimagined only two decades ago, and the only way to do
it is to raise pigs in astonishing, unprecedented
concentrations.
Smithfield's pigs live by the hundreds or thousands in
warehouse-like barns, in rows of wall-to-wall pens. Sows are
artificially inseminated and fed and delivered of their piglets in
cages so small they cannot turn around. Forty fully grown 250-pound
male hogs often occupy a pen the size of a tiny apartment. They
trample each other to death. There is no sunlight, straw, fresh air
or earth. The floors are slatted to allow excrement to fall into a
catchment pit under the pens, but many things besides excrement can
wind up in the pits: afterbirths, piglets accidentally crushed by
their mothers, old batteries, broken bottles of insecticide,
antibiotic syringes, stillborn pigs -- anything small enough to fit
through the foot-wide pipes that drain the pits. The pipes remain
closed until enough sewage accumulates in the pits to create good
expulsion pressure; then the pipes are opened and everything bursts
out into a large holding pond.
The temperature inside hog houses is often hotter than ninety
degrees. The air, saturated almost to the point of precipitation
with gases from shit and chemicals, can be lethal to the pigs.
Enormous exhaust fans run twenty-four hours a day. The ventilation
systems function like the ventilators of terminal patients: If they
break down for any length of time, pigs start dying.
From Smithfield's point of view, the problem with this lifestyle
is immunological. Taken together, the immobility, poisonous air and
terror of confinement badly damage the pigs' immune systems. They
become susceptible to infection, and in such dense quarters
microbes or parasites or fungi, once established in one pig, will
rush spritelike through the whole population. Accordingly, factory
pigs are infused with a huge range of antibiotics and vaccines, and
are doused with insecticides. Without these compounds --
oxytetracycline, draxxin, ceftiofur, tiamulin -- diseases would
likely kill them. Thus factory-farm pigs remain in a state of dying
until they're slaughtered. When a pig nearly ready to be
slaughtered grows ill, workers sometimes shoot it up with as many
drugs as necessary to get it to the slaughterhouse under its own
power. As long as the pig remains ambulatory, it can be legally
killed and sold as meat.
The drugs Smithfield administers to its pigs, of course, exit
its hog houses in pig shit. Industrial pig waste also contains a
host of other toxic substances: ammonia, methane, hydrogen sulfide,
carbon monoxide, cyanide, phosphorous, nitrates and heavy metals.
In addition, the waste nurses more than 100 microbial pathogens
that can cause illness in humans, including salmonella,
cryptosporidium, streptocolli and girardia. Each gram of hog shit
can contain as much as 100 million fecal coliform bacteria.
Smithfield's holding ponds -- the company calls them lagoons --
cover as much as 120,000 square feet. The area around a single
slaughterhouse can contain hundreds of lagoons, some of which run
thirty feet deep. The liquid in them is not brown. The interactions
between the bacteria and blood and afterbirths and stillborn
piglets and urine and excrement and chemicals and drugs turn the
lagoons pink.
Even light rains can cause lagoons to overflow; major floods
have transformed entire counties into pig-shit bayous. To alleviate
swelling lagoons, workers sometimes pump the shit out of them and
spray the waste on surrounding fields, which results in what the
industry daintily refers to as "overapplication." This can turn
hundreds of acres -- thousands of football fields -- into shallow
mud puddles of pig shit. Tree branches drip with pig shit.
Some pig-farm lagoons have polyethylene liners, which can be
punctured by rocks in the ground, allowing shit to seep beneath the
liners and spread and ferment. Gases from the fermentation can
inflate the liner like a hot-air balloon and rise in an expanding,
accelerating bubble, forcing thousands of tons of feces out of the
lagoon in all directions.
The lagoons themselves are so viscous and venomous that if someone
falls in it is foolish to try to save him. A few years ago, a truck
driver in Oklahoma was transferring pig shit to a lagoon when he
and his truck went over the side. It took almost three weeks to
recover his body. In 1992, when a worker making repairs to a lagoon
in Minnesota began to choke to death on the fumes, another worker
dived in after him, and they died the same death. In another
instance, a worker who was repairing a lagoon in Michigan was
overcome by the fumes and fell in. His fifteen-year-old nephew
dived in to save him but was overcome, the worker's cousin went in
to save the teenager but was overcome, the worker's older brother
dived in to save them but was overcome, and then the worker's
father dived in. They all died in pig shit.
The chairman of Smithfield Foods, Joseph Luter III, is a funny,
jowly, canny, barbarous guy who lives in a multimillion-dollar
condo on Park Avenue in Manhattan and conveys himself about the
planet in a corporate jet and a private yacht. At sixty-seven, he
is unrepentant in the face of criticism. He describes himself as a
"tough man in a tough business" and his factories as wholly
legitimate products of the American free market. He can be
sardonic; he likes to mock his critics and rivals.
"The animal-rights people," he once said, "want to impose a
vegetarian's society on the U.S. Most vegetarians I know are
neurotic." When the Environmental Protection Agency cited
Smithfield for thousands of violations of the Clean Water Act,
Luter responded by comparing what he claimed were the number of
violations the company could theoretically have been charged with
(2.5 million, by his calculation) to the number of documented
violations up to that point (seventy-four). "A very, very small
percent," he said.
Luter grew up butchering hogs in his father's slaughterhouse, in
the town of Smithfield, Virginia. When he took over the family
business forty years ago, it was a local, marginally profitable
meatpacking operation. Under Luter, Smithfield was soon making
enough money to begin purchasing neighboring meatpackers. From the
beginning, Luter thought monopolistically. He bought out his local
competition until he completely dominated the regional
pork-processing market.
But Luter was dissatisfied. The company was still buying most of
its hogs from local farmers; Luter wanted to create a system, known
as "total vertical integration," in which Smithfield controls every
stage of production, from the moment a hog is born until the day it
passes through the slaughterhouse. So he imposed a new kind of
contract on farmers: The company would own the living hogs; the
contractors would raise the pigs and be responsible for managing
the hog shit and disposing of dead hogs. The system made it
impossible for small hog farmers to survive -- those who could not
handle thousands and thousands of pigs were driven out of business.
"It was a simple matter of economic power," says Eric Tabor, chief
of staff for Iowa's attorney general.
Smithfield's expansion was unique in the history of the
industry: Between 1990 and 2005, it grew by more than 1,000
percent. In 1997 it was the nation's seventh-largest pork producer;
by 1999 it was the largest. Smithfield now kills one of every four
pigs sold commercially in the United States. As Smithfield
expanded, it consolidated its operations, clustering millions of
fattening hogs around its slaughterhouses. Under Luter, the company
was turning into a great pollution machine: Smithfield was suddenly
producing unheard-of amounts of pig shit laced with drugs and
chemicals. According to the EPA, Smithfield's largest
farm-slaughterhouse operation -- in Tar Heel, North Carolina --
dumps more toxic waste into the nation's water each year than all
but three other industrial facilities in America.
Luter likes to tell this story: An old man and his grandson are
walking in a cemetery. They see a tombstone that reads here
lies charles w. johnson, a man who had no enemies.
"Gee, Granddad," the boy says, "this man must have been a great
man. He had no enemies."
"Son," the grandfather replies, "if a man didn't have any
enemies, he didn't do a damn thing with his life."
If Luter were to set this story in Ivy Hill Cemetery in his
hometown of Smithfield, it would be an object lesson in how to make
enemies. Back when he was growing up, the branches of the
cemetery's trees were bent with the weight of scores of buzzards.
The waste stream from the Luters' meatpacking plant, with its
thickening agents of pig innards and dead fish, flowed nearby.
Luter learned the family trade well. Last year, before he retired
as CEO of Smithfield, he took home $10,802,134. He currently holds
$19,296,000 in unexercised stock options.
One day this fall, a retired Marine Corps colonel and
environmental activist named Rick Dove, the former riverkeeper of
North Carolina's Neuse River, arranged to have me flown over
Smithfield's operation in North Carolina. Dove, a focused guy of
sixty-seven years, is unable to talk about corporate hog farming
without becoming angry. After he got out of the Marine Corps in
1987, he became a commercial fisherman, which he had wanted to do
since he was a kid. He was successful, and his son went into
business with him. Then industrial hog farming arrived and killed
the fish, and both Dove and his son got seriously ill.
Dove and other activists provide the only effective oversight of
corporate hog farming in the area. The industry has long made
generous campaign contributions to politicians responsible for
regulating hog farms. In 1995, while Smithfield was trying to
persuade the state of Virginia to reduce a large fine for the
company's pollution, Joseph Luter gave $100,000 to then-governor
George Allen's political-action committee. In 1998, corporate hog
farms in North Carolina spent $1 million to help defeat state
legislators who wanted to clean up open-pit lagoons. The state has
consistently failed to employ enough inspectors to ensure that hog
farms are complying with environmental standards.
To document violations, Dove and other activists regularly hire
private planes to inspect corporate hog operations from the air.
The airport Dove uses, in New Bern, North Carolina, is tiny; the
plane he uses, a 1975 Cessna single-prop, looks tiny even in the
tiny airport. Its cabin has four cracked yellow linoleum seats. It
looks like the interior of a 1975 VW bug, but with more dials. The
pilot, Joe Corby, is older than I expected him to be.
"I have a GPS, so I can kinda guide you," Dove says to Corby
while we taxi to the runway.
"Oh, you do!" Corby says, apparently unaccustomed to such a
luxury. "Well, OK."
We take off. "Bunch of turkey buzzards," Dove says, looking out
the window. "They're big."
"Don't wanna hit them," Corby says. "They would be . . . very
destructive."
We climb to 2,000 feet and head toward the densest concentration of
hogs in the world. The landscape at first is unsuspiciously
pastoral -- fields planted in corn or soybeans or cotton, tree
lines staking creeks, a few unincorporated villages of prefab
houses. But then we arrive at the global locus of hog farming, and
the countryside turns into an immense subdivision for pigs. Hog
farms that contract with Smithfield differ slightly in dimension
but otherwise look identical: parallel rows of six, eight or twelve
one-story hog houses, some nearly the size of a football field,
containing as many as 10,000 hogs, and backing onto a single large
lagoon. From the air I see that the lagoons come in two shades of
pink: dark or Pepto Bismol -- vile, freaky colors in the middle of
green farmland.
From the plane, Smithfield's farms replicate one another as far
as I can see in every direction. Visibility is about four miles. I
count the lagoons. There are 103. That works out to at least 50,000
hogs per square mile. You could fly for an hour, Dove says, and all
you would see is corporate hog operations, with little towns of
modular homes and a few family farms pinioned amid them.
Studies have shown that lagoons emit hundreds of different
volatile gases into the atmosphere, including ammonia, methane,
carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide. A single lagoon releases many
millions of bacteria into the air per day, some resistant to human
antibiotics. Hog farms in North Carolina also emit some 300 tons of
nitrogen into the air every day as ammonia gas, much of which falls
back to earth and deprives lakes and streams of oxygen, stimulating
algal blooms and killing fish.
Looking down from the plane, we watch as several of Smithfield's
farmers spray their hog shit straight up into the air as a fine
mist: It looks like a public fountain. Lofted and atomized, the
shit is blown clear of the company's property. People who breathe
the shit-infused air suffer from bronchitis, asthma, heart
palpitations, headaches, diarrhea, nosebleeds and brain damage. In
1995, a woman downwind from a corporate hog farm in Olivia,
Minnesota, called a poison-control center and described her
symptoms. "Ma'am," the poison-control officer told her, "the only
symptoms of hydrogen-sulfide poisoning you're not experiencing are
seizures, convulsions and death. Leave the area immediately." When
you fly over eastern North Carolina, you realize that virtually
everyone in this part of the state lives close to a lagoon.
Each of the company's lagoons is surrounded by several fields.
Pollution control at Smithfield consists of spraying the pig shit
from the lagoons onto the fields to fertilize them. The idea is
borrowed from the past: The small hog farmers that Smithfield drove
out of business used animal waste to fertilize their crops, which
they then fed to the pigs. Smithfield says that this, in essence,
is what it does -- its crops absorb every ounce of its pig shit,
making the lagoon-sprayfield system a zero-discharge, nonpolluting
waste-disposal operation. "If you manage your fields correctly,
there should be no runoff, no pollution," says Dennis Treacy,
Smithfield's vice president of environmental affairs. "If you're
getting runoff, you're doing something wrong."
In fact, Smithfield doesn't grow nearly enough crops to absorb
all of its hog weight. The company raises so many pigs in so little
space that it actually has to import the majority of their food,
which contains large amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus. Those
chemicals -- discharged in pig shit and sprayed on fields -- run
off into the surrounding ecosystem, causing what Dan Whittle, a
former senior policy associate with the North Carolina Department
of Environment and Natural Resources, calls a "mass imbalance." At
one point, three hog-raising counties in North Carolina were
producing more nitrogen, and eighteen were producing more
phosphorus, than all the crops in the state could absorb.
As we fly over the hog farms, I notice that springs and streams
and swamplands and lakes are everywhere. Eastern North Carolina is
a coastal plain, grooved and tilted towards the sea -- and
Smithfield's sprayfields almost always incline toward creeks or
creek-fed swamps. Half-perforated pipes called irrigation tiles,
commonly used in modern farming, run beneath many of the fields;
when they become unplugged, the tiles effectively operate as
drainpipes, dumping pig waste into surrounding tributaries. Many
studies have documented the harm caused by hog-waste runoff; one
showed the pig shit raising the level of nitrogen and phosphorus in
a receiving river as much as sixfold. In eastern North Carolina,
nine rivers and creeks in the Cape Fear and Neuse River basins have
been classified by the state as either "negatively impacted" or
environmentally "impaired."
Although Smithfield may not have enough crops to absorb its pig
shit, its contract farmers do plant plenty of hay. In 1992, when
the number of hogs in North Carolina began to skyrocket, so much
hay was planted to deal with the fresh volumes of pig shit that the
market for hay collapsed. But the hay from hog farms can be so
nitrate-heavy that it sickens livestock. For a while, former
governor Jim Hunt -- a recipient of hog-industry campaign money --
was feeding hog-farm hay to his cows. Locals say it made the cows
sick and irritable, and the animals kicked Hunt several times,
seemingly in revenge. It's a popular tale in eastern North
Carolina.
To appreciate what this agglomeration of hog production does to
the people who live near it, you have to appreciate the smell of
industrial-strength pig shit. The ascending stench can nauseate
pilots at 3,000 feet. On the day we fly over Smithfield's operation
there is little wind to stir up the lagoons or carry the stink, and
the region's current drought means that lagoon operators aren't
spraying very frequently. It is the best of times. We can smell the
farms from the air, but while the smell is foul it is intermittent
and not particularly strong.
To get a really good whiff, I drive down a narrow country road
of white sand and walk up to a Smithfield lagoon. At the end of the
road stands a tractor and some spraying equipment. The fetid white
carcass of a hog lies in a dumpster known as a "dead box." Flies
cover the hog's snout. Its hooves look like high heels. Millions of
factory-farm hogs -- one study puts it at ten percent -- die before
they make it to the killing floor. Some are taken to rendering
plants, where they are propelled through meat grinders and then fed
cannibalistically back to other living hogs. Others are dumped into
big open pits called "dead holes," or left in the dumpsters for so
long that they swell and explode. The borders of hog farms are
littered with dead pigs in all stages of decomposition, including
thousands of bleached pig bones. Locals like to say that the bears
and buzzards of eastern North Carolina are unusually lazy and
fat.
No one seems to be around. It is quiet except for the gigantic
exhaust fans affixed to the six hog houses. There is an unwholesome
tang in the air, but there is no wind and it isn't hot, so I can't
smell the lagoon itself. I walk the few hundred yards over to it.
It is covered with a thick film; its edge is a narrow beach of big
black flies. Here, its odor is leaking out. I take a deep
breath.
Concentrated manure is my first thought, but I am fighting an
impulse to vomit even as I am thinking it. I've probably smelled
stronger odors in my life, but nothing so insidiously and
instantaneously nauseating. It takes my mind a second or two to get
through the odor's first coat. The smell at its core has a
frightening, uniquely enriched putridity, both deep-sweet and
high-sour. I back away from it and walk back to the car but I
remain sick -- it's a shivery, retchy kind of nausea -- for a good
five minutes. That's apparently characteristic of industrial pig
shit: It keeps making you sick for a good while after you've
stopped smelling it. It's an unduly invasive, adhesive smell. Your
whole body reacts to it. It's as if something has physically
entered your stomach. A little later I am driving and I catch a
crosswind stench -- it must have been from a stirred-up lagoon --
and from the moment it hit me a timer in my body started ticking:
You can only function for so long in that smell. The memory of it
makes you gag.
Unsurprisingly, prolonged exposure to hog-factory stench makes the
smell extremely hard to get off. Hog factory workers stink up every
store they walk into. I run into a few local guys who had made the
mistake of accepting jobs in hog houses, and they tell me that you
just have to wait the smell out: You'll eventually grow new hair
and skin. If you work in a Smithfield hog house for a year and then
quit, you might stink for the next three months.
If the temperature and wind aren't right and the lagoon
operators are spraying, people in hog country can't hang laundry or
sit on their porches or mow their lawns. Epidemiological studies
show that those who live near hog lagoons suffer from abnormally
high levels of depression, tension, anger, fatigue and confusion.
"We are used to farm odors," says one local farmer. "These are not
farm odors." Sometimes the stink literally knocks people down: They
walk out of the house to get something in the yard and become so
nauseous they collapse. When they retain consciousness, they crawl
back into the house.
That has happened several times to Julian and Charlotte Savage,
an elderly couple whose farmland now abuts a Smithfield sprayfield
-- one of several meant to absorb the shit of 50,000 hogs. The
Savages live in a small, modular kit house. Sitting in the kitchen,
Charlotte tells me that she once saw Julian collapse in the yard
and ran out and threw a coat over his head and dragged him back
inside. Before Smithfield arrived, Julian's family farmed the land
for the better part of a century. He raised tobacco, corn, wheat,
turkeys and chickens. Now he has respiratory problems and rarely
attempts to go outside.
Behind the house, a creek bordering the sprayfield flows into a
swamp; the Savages have seen hog waste running right into the
creek. Once, during a flood, the Savages found pig shit six inches
deep pooled around their house. They had to drain it by digging
trenches, which took three weeks. Charlotte has noticed that
nitrogen fallout keeps the trees around the house a deep synthetic
green. There's a big buzzard population.
The Savages say they can keep the pig-shit smell out of their
house by shutting the doors and windows, but to me the walls reek
faintly. They have a windbreak -- an eighty-foot-wide strip of
forest -- between their house and the fields. They know people who
don't, though, and when the smell is bad, those people, like
everyone, shut their windows and slam their front doors shut
quickly behind them, but their coffee and spaghetti and carrots
still smell and taste like pig shit.
The Savages have had what seemed to be hog shit in their bath
water. Their well water, which was clean before Smithfield arrived,
is now suspect. "I try not to drink it," Charlotte says. "We mostly
just drink drinks, soda and things." While we talk, Julian spends
most of the time on the living room couch; his lungs are
particularly bad today. Then he comes into the kitchen. Among other
things, he says: I can't breathe it, it'll put you on the
ground; you can't walk, you fall down; you breathe you gon' die;
you go out and smell it one time and your ass is gone; it's not
funny to be around it. It's not funny, honey. He could have
said all this somewhat tragicomically, with a thin smile, but
instead he cries the whole time.
Smithfield is not just a virtuosic polluter; it is also a
theatrical one. Its lagoons are historically prone to failure. In
North Carolina alone they have spilled, in a span of four years, 2
million gallons of shit into the Cape Fear River, 1.5 million
gallons into its Persimmon Branch, one million gallons into the
Trent River and 200,000 gallons into Turkey Creek. In Virginia,
Smithfield was fined $12.6 million in 1997 for 6,900 violations of
the Clean Water Act -- the third-largest civil penalty ever levied
under the act by the EPA. It amounted to .035 percent of
Smithfield's annual sales.
A river that receives a lot of waste from an industrial hog farm
begins to die quickly. Toxins and microbes can kill plants and
animals outright; the waste itself consumes available oxygen and
suffocates fish and aquatic animals; and the nutrients in the pig
shit produce algal blooms that also deoxygenate the water. The
Pagan River runs by Smithfield's original plant and headquarters in
Virginia, which served as Joseph Luter's staging ground for his
assault on the pork-raising and processing industries. For several
decades, before a spate of regulations, the Pagan had no living
marsh grass, a tiny and toxic population of fish and shellfish and
a half foot of noxious black mud coating its bed. The hulls of
boats winched up out of the river bore inch-thick coats of greasy
muck. In North Carolina, much of the pig waste from Smithfield's
operations makes its way into the Neuse River; in a five-day span
in 2003 alone, more than 4 million fish died. Pig-waste runoff has
damaged the Albemarle-Pamlico Sound, which is almost as big as the
Chesapeake Bay and which provides half the nursery grounds used by
fish in the eastern Atlantic.
The biggest spill in the history of corporate hog farming
happened in 1995. The dike of a 120,000-square-foot lagoon owned by
a Smithfield competitor ruptured, releasing 25.8 million gallons of
effluvium into the headwaters of the New River in North Carolina.
It was the biggest environmental spill in United States history,
more than twice as big as the Exxon Valdez oil spill six years
earlier. The sludge was so toxic it burned your skin if you touched
it, and so dense it took almost two months to make its way sixteen
miles downstream to the ocean. From the headwaters to the sea,
every creature living in the river was killed. Fish died by the
millions.
It's hard to conceive of a fish kill that size. The kill began
with turbulence in one small part of the water: fish writhing and
dying. Then it spread in patches along the entire length and
breadth of the river. In two hours, dead and dying fish were
mounded wherever the river's contours slowed the current, and the
riverbanks were mostly dead fish. Within a day dead fish completely
covered the riverbanks, and between the floating and beached and
piled fish the water scintillated out of sight up and down the
river with billions of buoyant dead eyes and scales and white
bellies -- more fish than the river seemed capable of holding. The
smell of rotting fish covered much of the county; the air above the
river was chaotic with scavenging birds. There were far more dead
fish than the birds could ever eat.
Spills aren't the worst thing that can happen to toxic pig waste
lying exposed in fields and lagoons. Hurricanes are worse. In 1999,
Hurricane Floyd washed 120,000,000 gallons of unsheltered hog waste
into the Tar, Neuse, Roanoke, Pamlico, New and Cape Fear rivers.
Many of the pig-shit lagoons of eastern North Carolina were several
feet underwater. Satellite photographs show a dark brown tide
closing over the region's waterways, converging on the
Albemarle-Pamlico Sound and feeding itself out to sea in a long,
well-defined channel. Very little freshwater marine life remained
behind. Tens of thousands of drowned pigs were strewn across the
land. Beaches located miles from Smithfield lagoons were slathered
in feces. A picture taken at the time shows a shark eating a dead
pig three miles off the North Carolina coast.
From a waste-disposal perspective, Hurricane Floyd was the best
thing that had ever happened to corporate hog farming in North
Carolina. Smithfield currently has tens of thousands of gallons of
open-air waste awaiting more Floyds.
In addition to such impressive disasters, corporate hog farming
contributes to another form of environmental havoc: Pfiesteria
piscicida, a microbe that, in its toxic form, has killed a
billion fish and injured dozens of people. Nutrient-rich waste like
pig shit creates the ideal environment for Pfiesteria to bloom: The
microbe eats fish attracted to algae nourished by the waste.
Pfiesteria is invisible and odorless -- you know it by the trail of
dead. The microbe degrades a fish's skin, laying bare tissue and
blood cells; it then eats its way into the fish's body. After the
1995 spill, millions of fish developed large bleeding sores on
their sides and quickly died. Fishermen found that at least one of
Pfiesteria's toxins could take flight: Breathing the air above the
bloom caused severe respiratory difficulty, headaches, blurry
vision and logical impairment. Some fishermen forgot how to get
home; laboratory workers exposed to Pfiesteria lost the ability to
solve simple math problems and dial phones; they forgot their own
names. It could take weeks or months for the brain and lungs to
recover.
Smithfield is no longer able to disfigure watersheds quite so
obviously as in the past; it can no longer expand and flatten small
pig farms quite so easily. Several state legislatures have passed
laws prohibiting or limiting the ownership of small farms by pork
processors. In some places, new slaughterhouses are required to
meet expensive waste-disposal requirements; many are forbidden from
using the waste-lagoon system. North Carolina, where pigs now
outnumber people, has passed a moratorium on new hog operations and
ordered Smithfield to fund research into alternative waste-disposal
technologies. South Carolina, having taken a good look at its
neighbor's coastal plain, has pronounced the company unwelcome in
the state. The federal government and several states have
challenged some of Smithfield's recent acquisition deals and, in a
few instances, have forced the company to agree to modify its
waste-lagoon systems.
These initiatives, of course, come comically late. Industrial
hog operations control at least seventy-five percent of the market.
Smithfield's market dominance is hardly at risk: Twenty-six percent
of the pork processed in this country is Smithfield pork. The
company's expansion does not seem to be slowing down: Over the past
two years, Smithfield's annual sales grew by $1.5 billion. In
September, the company announced that it is merging with Premium
Standard Farms, the nation's second-largest hog farmer and
sixth-largest pork processor. If the deal goes through, Smithfield
will own more pigs than the next eight largest pork producers in
the nation combined. The company's market leverage and political
clout will allow it to produce ever greater quantities of hog
waste.
Smithfield points to the improvements it has made to its
waste-disposal systems in recent years. In 2003, Smithfield
announced that it was investing $20 million in a program to turn
its pig shit in Utah into alternative fuel. It now produces
approximately 2,500 gallons a day of biomethanol and has begun
building a facility in Texas to produce clean-burning biodiesel
fuel.
"We're paying a lot of attention to energy right now," says
Treacy, the Smithfield vice president. "We've come such a long way
in the last five years." The company, he adds, has undergone a
"complete cultural shift on environmental matters."
But cultural shifts, no matter how genuine, cannot counter the
unalterable physical reality of Smithfield Foods itself. "All of a
sudden we have this 800-pound gorilla in the pork industry,"
Successful Farming magazine warned -- six years ago. There
simply is no regulatory solution to the millions of tons of
searingly fetid, toxic effluvium that industrial hog farms
discharge and aerosolize on a daily basis. Smithfield alone has
sixteen operations in twelve states. Fixing the problem completely
would bankrupt the company. According to Dr. Michael Mallin, a
marine scientist at the University of North Carolina at Wilmington
who has researched the effects of corporate farming on water
quality, the volumes of concentrated pig waste produced by
industrial hog farms are plainly not containable in small areas.
The land, he says, "just can't absorb everything that comes out of
the barns." From the moment that Smithfield attained its current
size, its waste-disposal problem became conventionally
insoluble.
Joe Luter, like his pig shit, has an innate aversion to being
contained in any way. Ever since American regulators and lawmakers
started forcing Smithfield to spend more money on waste treatment
and attempting to limit the company's expansion, Luter has been
looking to do business elsewhere. In recent years, his gaze has
fallen on the lucrative and unregulated markets of Poland.
In 1999, Luter bought a state-owned company called Animex, one
of Poland's biggest hog processors. Then he began doing business
through a Polish subsidiary called Prima Farms, acquiring huge
moribund Communist-era hog farms and converting them into
concentrated feeding operations. Pork prices in Poland were low, so
Smithfield's sweeping expansion didn't make strict economic sense,
except that it had the virtue of pushing small hog farmers toward
bankruptcy. By 2003, Animex was operating six subsidiary companies
and seven processing plants, selling nine brands of meat and taking
in $338 million annually.
The usual violations occurred. Near one of Smithfield's largest
plants, in Byszkowo, an enormous pool of frozen pig shit, pumped
into a lagoon in winter, melted and ran into two nearby lakes. The
lake water turned brown; residents in local villages got skin
rashes and eye infections; the stench made it impossible to eat. A
recent report to the Helsinki Commission found that Smithfield's
pollution throughout Poland was damaging the country's ecosystems.
Overapplication was endemic. Farmers without permits were piping
liquid pig shit directly into watersheds that fed into the Baltic
Sea.
When Joseph Luter entered Poland, he announced that he planned
to turn the country into the "Iowa of Europe." Iowa has always been
America's biggest hog producer and remains the nation's chief icon
of hog farming. Having subdued Poland, Luter announced this summer
that all of Eastern Europe -- "particularly Romania" -- should
become the "Iowa of Europe." Seventy-five percent of Romania's hogs
currently come from household farms. Over the next five years,
Smithfield plans to spend $800 million in Romania to change
that.
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